Pan di Spagna and Zuppa Inglese
For a fiercely localized culinary tradition like the Italian one, the fact that two staples of the Italian desserts carry foreign references is an utmost disgraceful thing. However, Pan di Spagna (literally “bread of Spain”) and Zuppa Inglese (“English Soup”) are among the most well-known and loved desserts around Italy. Quite hironically, pan di spagna is used to make zuppa inglese.
My first attept at Pan Di Spagna!
Pan di spagna is a yellow sponge cake, traditionally made with egs, sugar and flour without yeast. It is the base of pretty much everything that in Italy is universally defined as torta, “cake”. Legend has it that it was invented by a pastry chef from Genova who was sent to Spain to serve a fabolous meal to the court. He served his creation to the court, and found his glory in this spongy cake. Nowadays, in many parts of Italy the yeast preparation is favored because it yields a softer base more prone to be soaked in water and sugar or liquor.
Zuppa Inglese, despite its name, is a traditional recipe of Romagna. It is a dolce al cucchiaio, a dessert that is eaten with a spoon, of very old tradition. In essence, it is a mix of pan di spagna soaked in alchermes liquor and layered with the traditional Italian egg custard, crema, some left in its original form and some flavored with chocolate. The bright red of alchermes, the yellow of the egg custard and the brown of the chocolate make a very visually exciting dessert, ususally prepared and served in glass bowl to better appreciate the color combination. Its origin is very debated- quite surprisingly, English-language references point to an 18th century invention in Naples, but all Italian sources point to a Renaissance creation at the court of the Este family, in Ferrara. Pellegrino Artusi, the great 18th century food historian, reports the Renaissance origin of this very popular dessert.
Despite their foreign names, both pan di spagna and zuppa inglese are very loved traditional desserts, and quite surprisingly they seem to be among the very few Italian dishes that went beyond regional preparation to be nation-wide staples in all pasticcerie. How to make them? Simple! Tomorrow you’ll find a brief photo-essay on my first attempt at making pan di spagna!
Filed under: Culinary Culture, Traditional Foods
Vanessa – am I reading that right? First attempt to make Pan Di Spagna?!?!?!
gabi.
I know Gabi- here’s the deal: I am a pretty good cook, but as a baker I am a complete disaster!! You would think the engineer in me would prevail, but, no, I am a joke of a baking wreck!
[...] custard that fills morning cornetti, layers pan di spagna, and makes the basis for fruit tarts and zuppa inglese. It is simple, delicious, versatile and tasty! I made a batch at home and have made tarts, [...]